Jar of Hearts Christina Perri cover by 12 yo Jannine Weigel HD

ជាតិក្រោយសុំធ្វើប្រពន្ធបង &មានជាតិក្រោយក៏មិនប្រាកដថាបានស្គាល់គ្នា SD VCD...

បាត់អូនដូចបាត់មនុស្សមួយផែនដី ហង្ស ឧត្តមម៉ានី

Home for Dinner Nikki, original song

Portrait Photography

Portrait photography or portraiture is photography of a person or group of people that displays the expression, personality, and mood of the subject. Like other types of portraiture, the focus of the photograph is usually the person's face, although the entire body and the background or context may be included.

History

The relatively low cost of the daguerreotype in the middle of the 19th century and the reduced sitting time for the subject, though still much longer than now, led to a general rise in the popularity of portrait photography over painted portraiture. The style of these early works reflected the technical challenges associated with long exposure times and the painterly aesthetic of the time. Subjects were generally seated against plain backgrounds and lit with the soft light of an overhead window and whatever else could be reflected with mirrors. Advances in photographic equipment and techniques developed, and gave photographers the ability to capture images with shorter exposure times and the making of portraits outside the studio.

Lighting for portraiture

Winter portrait of a 10-month-oldbaby girl

When portrait photographs are composed and captured in a studio, the photographer has control over the lighting of the composition of the subject and can adjust direction and intensity of light. There are many ways to light a subject's face, but there are several common lighting plans which are easy enough to describe.

Three-point lighting

One of the most basic lighting plans is called three-point lighting. This plan uses three (and sometimes four) lights to fully model (bring out details and the three-dimensionality of) the subject's features. The three main lights used in this light plan are as follows:

Key-Light

Also called a main light, the key light is usually placed to one side of the subject's face, between 30 and 60 degrees off center and a bit higher than eye level. The purpose of the Key-Light is to give shape (modelling) to a subject, typically a face. This relies on the first principle of lighting, white comes out of a plane and black goes back into a plane. The depth of shadow created by the Main-Light can be controlled with a Fill-Light.

Fill-in light

In modern photography, the fill-in light is used to control the contrast in the scene and is nearly always placed above the lens axis and is a large light source (think of the sky behind your head when taking a photograph). As the amount of light is less than the key-light (main-light), the fill acts by lifting the shadows only (particularly relevant in digital photography where the noise lives in the shadows). It is true to say that light bounces around a room and fills in the shadows but this does not mean that a fill-light should be placed opposite a key-light (main-light) and it does not soften shadows, it lifts them. The relative intensity (ratio) of the Key-light to the fill-light is most easily discussed in terms of "Stops" difference (where a Stop is a doubling or halving of the intensity of light). A 2 Stop reduction in intensity for the Fill-Light would be a typical start point to maintain dimensionality (modelling) in a portrait (head and shoulder) shot.

Accent-Light

Accent-lights serve the purpose of accentuating a subject. Typically an Accent-light will separate a subject from a background. Examples would be a light shining onto a subject's hair to add a rim effect or shining onto a background to lift the tones of a background. There can be many accent lights in a shot, another example would be a spotlight on a handbag in a fashion shot. When used for separation, i.e. a hair-light, the light should not be more dominant than the main light for general use. Think in terms of a "Kiss of moonlight", rather than a "Strike of lightning", although there are no "shoulds" in photography and it is up to the photographer to decide on the authorship of their shot.

Kicker

A Kicker is a form of Accent-Light. Often used to give a backlit edge to a subject on the shadow side of the subject.

Butterfly lighting

Butterfly lighting by director Josef von Sternberg is used to enhanceMarlene Dietrich's features, in the iconic shot.
From Shanghai Express, Paramount 1932
Photo by Don English

Butterfly lighting uses only two lights. The Key light is placed directly in front of the subject, often above the camera or slightly to one side, and a bit higher than is common for a three-point lighting plan. The second light is a rim light. Often a reflector is placed below the subject's face to provide fill light and soften shadows.

This lighting can be recognized by the strong light falling on the forehead, the bridge of the nose and the upper cheeks, and by the distinct shadow below the nose which often looks rather like a butterfly and thus provides the name for this lighting plan. Butterfly lighting was a favourite of famed Hollywood portraitist George Hurrell, which is why this style of lighting is often called Paramount lighting.

Accessory lights

These lights can be added to basic lighting plans to provide additional highlights or add background definition.

Background lights

Not so much a part of the portrait lighting plan, but rather designed to provide illumination for the background behind the subject, background lights can pick out details in the background, provide a halo effect by illuminating a portion of a backdrop behind the subject's head, or turn the background pure white by filling it with light.

Other lighting equipment

Most lights used in modern photography are a flash of some sort. The lighting for portraiture is typically diffused by bouncing it from the inside of anumbrella, or by using a soft box. A soft box is a fabric box, encasing a photo strobe head, one side of which is made of translucent fabric. This provides a softer lighting for portrait work and is often considered more appealing than the harsh light often cast by open strobes. Hair and background lights are usually not diffused. It is more important to control light spillage to other areas of the subject. Snoots, barn doors and flags or gobos help focus the lights exactly where the photographer wants them. Background lights are sometimes used with color gels placed in front of the light to create coloured backgrounds.

Science of photography

The science of photography refers to the use of science, such as chemistry and physics, in all aspects of photography. This applies to the camera, its lenses, physical operation of the camera, electronic camera internals, and the process of developing film in order to take and develop pictures properly.

Law of Reciprocity

Exposure ∝ Aperture Area × Exposure Time × Scene Luminance

The law of reciprocity describes how light intensity and duration trade off to make an exposure—it defines the relationship between shutter speed and aperture, for a given total exposure. Changes to any of these elements are often measured in units known as "stops"; a stop is equal to a factor of two.

Halving the amount light exposing the film can be achieved either by:

1. Closing the aperture by one stop
2. Decreasing the shutter time (increasing the shutter speed) by one stop
3. Cutting the scene lighting by half

Likewise, doubling the amount of light exposing the film can be achieved by the opposite of one of these operations.

The luminance of the scene, as measured on a reflected light meter, also affects the exposure proportionately. The amount of light required for proper exposure depends on the film speed; which can be varied in stops or fractions of stops. With either of these changes, the aperture or shutter speed can be adjusted by an equal number of stops to get to a suitable exposure.

Light is most easily controlled through the use of the camera's aperture (measure in f-stops), but it can also be regulated by adjusting the shutter speed. Using faster or slower film is not usually something that can be done quickly, at least using roll film. Large format cameras use individual sheets of film and each sheet could be a different speed. Also, if you're using a larger format camera with a polaroid back, you can switch between backs containing different speed polaroids. Digital cameras can easily adjust the film speed they are simulating by adjusting theexposure index, and many digital cameras can do so automatically in response to exposure measurements.

For example, starting with an exposure of 1/60 at f/16, the depth-of-field could be made shallower by opening up the aperture to f/4, an increase in exposure of 4 stops. To compensate, the shutter speed would need to be increased as well by 4 stops, that is, adjust exposure time down to 1/1000. Closing down the aperture limits the resolution due to the diffraction limit.

The reciprocity law specifies the total exposure, but the response of a photographic material to a constant total exposure may not remain constant for very long exposures in very faint light, such as photographing a starry sky, or very short exposures in very bright light, such as photographing the sun. This is known as reciprocity failure of the material (film, paper, or sensor).

Lenses

A photographic lens is usually composed of several lens elements, which combine to reduce the effects of chromatic aberration, coma, spherical aberration, and other aberrations. A simple example is the three-element Cooke triplet, still in use over a century after it was first designed, but many current photographic lenses are much more complex.

Using a smaller aperture can reduce most, but not all aberrations. They can also be reduced dramatically by using an aspheric element, but these are more complex to grind than spherical or cylindrical lenses. However, with modern manufacturing techniques the extra cost of manufacturing aspherical lenses is decreasing, and small aspherical lenses can now be made by molding, allowing their use in inexpensive consumer cameras. Fresnel lenses are not used in cameras even though they are extremely light and cheap, because they produce poor image quality. The recently developed Fiber-coupled monocentric lens consists of spheres constructed of concentric hemispherical shells of different glasses tied to the focal plane by bundles of optical fibers. Monocentric lenses are also not used in cameras because the technology was just debuted in October 2013 at the Frontiers in Optics Conference in Orlando, Florida.

All lens design is a compromise between numerous factors, not excluding cost. Zoom lenses (i.e. lenses of variable focal length) involve additional compromises and therefore normally do not match the performance of prime lenses.

When a camera lens is focused to project an object some distance away onto the film or detector, the objects that are closer in distance, relative to the distant object, are also approximatelyin focus. The range of distances that are nearly in focus is called the depth of field. Depth of field generally increases with decreasing aperture diameter (increasing f-number). The unfocused blur outside the depth of field is sometimes used for artistic effect in photography. The subjective appearance of this blur is known as bokeh.

If the camera lens is focused at or beyond its hyperfocal distance, then the depth of field becomes large, covering everything from half the hyperfocal distance to infinity. This effect is used to make "focus free" or fixed-focus cameras.

Motion blur

Motion blur is caused when either the camera or the subject moves during the exposure. This causes a distinctive streaky appearance to the moving object or the entire picture (in the case of camera shake).

Motion blur of background while following the subject

Motion blur can be used artistically to create the feeling of speed or motion, as with running water. An example of this is the technique of "panning", where the camera is moved so it follows the subject, which is usually fast moving, such as a car. Done correctly, this will give an image of a clear subject, but the background will have motion blur, giving the feeling of movement. This is one of the more difficult photographic techniques to master, as the movement must be smooth, and at the correct speed. A subject that gets closer or further away from the camera may further cause focusing difficulties.

Light trails

Light trails is another photographic effect where motion blur is used. Photographs of the lines of light visible in long exposure photos of roads at night are one example of effect. This is caused by the cars moving along the road during the exposure. The same principle is used to create star trail photographs.

Generally, motion blur is something that is to be avoided, and this can be done in several different ways. The simplest way is to limit the shutter time so that there is very little movement of the image during the time the shutter is open. At longer focal lengths, the same movement of the camera body will cause more motion of the image, so a shorter shutter time is needed. A commonly cited rule of thumb is that the shutter speed in seconds should be about the reciprocal of the 35 mm equivalent focal length of the lens in millimeters. For example, a 50 mm lens should be used at a minimum speed of 1/50 sec, and a 300 mm lens at 1/300 of a second. This can cause difficulties when used in low light scenarios, since exposure also decreases with shutter time.

High speed photography uses very short exposures to prevent blurring of fast moving subjects

Motion blur due to subject movement can usually be prevented by using a faster shutter speed. The exact shutter speed will depend on the speed at which the subject is moving. For example, a very fast shutter speed will be needed to "freeze" the rotors of a helicopter, whereas a slower shutter speed will be sufficient to freeze a runner.

A tripod may be used to avoid motion blur due to camera shake. This will stabilize the camera during the exposure. A tripod is recommended for exposure times more than about 1/15 seconds. There are additional techniques which, in conjunction with use of a tripod, ensure that the camera remains very still. These may employ use of a remote actuator, such as a cable release or infrared remote switch to activate the shutter, so as to avoid the movement normally caused when the shutter release button is pressed directly. The use of a "self timer" (a timed release mechanism that automatically trips the shutter release after an interval of time) can serve the same purpose. Most modern single-lens reflex camera (SLR) have a mirror lock-up feature that eliminates the small amount of shake produced by the mirror flipping up.

Focus

This subject is in sharp focus while the distant background is unfocused

Focus is the tendency for light rays to reach the same place on the image sensor or film, independent of where they pass through the lens. For clear pictures, the focus is adjusted for distance, because at a different object distance the rays reach different parts of the lens with different angles. In modern photography, focusing is often accomplished automatically.

The autofocus system in modern SLRs use a sensor in the mirrorbox to measure contrast. The sensor's signal is analyzed by an application-specific integrated circuit (ASIC), and the ASIC tries to maximize the contrast pattern by moving lens elements. The ASICs in modern cameras also have special algorithms for predicting motion, and other advanced features.

The Nature Sound

Technique to Sport Photography

Technique

Location is often important for sports photography. At big events, professional photographers often shoot from VIP spots with the best views, usually as close to the action as possible. Most sports require the photographer to frame their images with speed and adjust camera settings spontaneously to prevent blurring or incorrect exposure. Some sports photography is also done from a distance to give the game a unique effect.

Panning

Shutter speed is critical to catching motion, thus sports photography is often done in shutter priority mode or manual. A frequent goal is to capture an instant with minimal blur, in which case a minimal shutter speed is desired, but in other cases a slower shutter speed is used so that blur is show, letting one see the motion, not simply the instant. A particular technique is panning, where the camera uses an intermediate shutter speed and pans with the subject, yielding a relatively sharp subject (particularly for faster subjects) and a background blurred in the direction of motion, yielding a sense of speed – compare speed lines.

ISO speed is often high (to allow faster shutter speeds) and may be left in auto.

Photos are often taken in burst mode to capture the best moment, sometimes in combination with JPEG rather than RAW shooting (JPEG files being smaller, these allow longer bursts).

Sport Photography

Sports photography refers to the genre of photography that covers all types of sports.

In the majority of cases, professional sports photography is a branch of photojournalism, while amateur sports photography, such as photos of children playing association football, is a branch of vernacular photography.

The main application of professional sports photography is for editorial purposes; dedicated sports photographers usually work for newspapers, major wire agencies or dedicated sports magazines. However, sports photography is also used for advertising purposes both to build a brand and as well as to promote a sport in a way that cannot be accomplished by editorial means.

Equipment

Equipment typically used for sports photography includes a digital single-lens reflex (DSLR) camera with high shutter speeds (frames per second), with interchangeable lenses ranging from 14mm to 400mm or longer in focal length, depending on the type of sport. The proper lenses are very important as they allow the photographer to reach closer or farther as quickly as possible to keep up with the game play. Essential accessories include amonopod or tripod for stability and extra batteries. Longer focal length lenses typically being used to photograph play on a field such as football, while wide angle lenses are can be used for sideline and close up athlete photos.

Camera bodies

Preferred camera bodies for the modern sports photographer are those with fast autofocus and a high burst rate (usually 8 frames per second or faster). The current flagship sports cameras produced by Canon and Nikon are the Canon EOS-1D X and the Nikon D4, these are popular in professional sports.

Lenses

Different sports favor different lenses, but sports photography usually requires fast (wide aperture) telephotolenses, with fast autofocus performance. Fast autofocus is needed to focus on movement, telephoto to get close to the action, and wide aperture for several reasons:

• The background is put drastically out of focus due to a shallow depth of field, resulting in better subject isolation.
• The lenses can focus more quickly due to the increase in light entering the lens – important with fast-moving action.
• Faster shutter speeds can be used to freeze the action.

Extremely wide apertures (such as f/1.2 or f/1.4) are more rarely used, because at these apertures the depth of field is very shallow, which makes focusing more difficult and slows down autofocus. The main distinction is between outdoor sports and indoor sports – in outdoor sports the distances are greater and the light brighter,^[1] while in indoor sports the distances are lesser and the light dimmer.^[2] Accordingly, outdoor sports tend to have longer focal length long focus lenses with slower apertures, while indoor sports tend to have shorter lenses with faster apertures.

Both zoom and prime lenses are used; zoom lenses (generally in the 70–200, 75–300, 100–400 or 200-400 range) allow a greater range of framing; primes are faster, cheaper, lighter, and optically superior, but are more restricted in framing. As an example the Nikon AF-S NIKKOR 400mm f/2.8G ED VR AF lens and the Canon EF 300mm f/2.8L IS II USM lens are both fixed telephoto lenses which cannot zoom.

Apertures of f/2.8 or faster are most often used, though f/4 is also found, particularly on brighter days. Particularly visible are the Canon super telephoto lenses, whose distinctive white casing (to dissipate the sun's heat) is recognizable at many sporting events. Of these, the Canon 400mm f/2.8 is particularly recommended for field sports such as football.

This varies with sport and preference; for example golf photographers may prefer to use a 500mm f/4 as opposed to a 400mm f/2.8 as it is a lighter lens to be carried around all day.

Remote cameras

Sports photographers may use remote cameras triggered by wireless shutter devices (i.e. Pocket Wizards) to photograph from places they could not otherwise stay, for example in an elevated position such as above a basketball basket, or to be in two places at once, i.e. at the start and the finish - such as at horse racing.

Milky Way!

The Milky Way is the galaxy that contains our Solar System. Its name "milky" is derived from its appearance as a dim glowing band arching across the night sky in which the naked eye cannot distinguish individual stars. The term "Milky Way" is a translation of the Latinvia lactea, from the Greek γαλαξίας κύκλος (galaxías kýklos, "milky circle").From Earth, the Milky Way appears as a band because its disk-shaped structure is viewed from within.Galileo Galilei first resolved the band of light into individual stars with his telescope in 1610. Up until the early 1920s, most astronomers thought that all of the stars in the Universe were contained inside of the Milky Way. Following the 1920 Great Debate between the astronomers Harlow Shapley and Heber Curtis, observations by Edwin Hubble showed that the Milky Way is just one of many galaxies—now known to be billions.

The Milky Way is a barred spiral galaxy that has a diameter usually considered to be roughly 100,000–120,000 light-years in diameter but may be 150,000–180,000 light-years.^[25] The Milky Way is estimated to contain 100–400 billion stars, although this number may be as high as one trillion. There are probably at least 100 billion planets in the Milky Way. The Solar System is located within the disk, about 27,000 light-years from the Galactic Center, on the inner edge of one of the spiral-shaped concentrations of gas and dust called the Orion Arm. The stars in the inner ≈10,000 light-years form a bulge and one or more bars that radiate from the bulge. The very center is marked by an intense radio source, named Sagittarius A*, which is likely to be a supermassive black hole.

Stars and gases at a wide range of distances from the Galactic Center orbit at approximately 220 kilometers per second. The constant rotation speed contradicts the laws of Keplerian dynamicsand suggests that much of the mass of the Milky Way does not emit or absorb electromagnetic radiation. This mass has been given the name "dark matter". The rotational period is about 240 million years at the position of the Sun. The Milky Way as a whole is moving at a velocity of approximately 600 km per second with respect to extragalactic frames of reference. The oldest stars in the Milky Way are nearly as old as the Universe itself and thus must have formed shortly after the Big Bang.

Surrounded by several smaller satellite galaxies, the Milky Way is part of the Local Group of galaxies, which forms a subcomponent of the Virgo Supercluster, which again forms a subcomponent of the Laniakea Supercluster.

Landscape Photography

Landscape photography shows spaces within the world, sometimes vast and unending, but other times microscopic. Landscape photographs typically capture the presence of nature but can also focus on man-made features or disturbances of landscapes.
Many landscape photographs show little or no human activity and are created in the pursuit of a pure, unsullied depiction of nature devoid of human influence, instead featuring subjects such as strongly defined landforms, weather, and ambient light. As with most forms of art, the definition of a landscape photograph is broad, and may include urban settings, industrial areas, and nature photography.
Some of the most important and celebrated landscape photographers have been motivated by an appreciation of the beauty of the natural environment and a desire to see it preserved. 

How to improve Camera Phone Photography

How to Improve Camera Phone Photography
Today, high-end phones come loaded with an awesome camera or sometimes, with two cameras. The cameras in these phones are so good that they can even substitute point and shoot cameras. Oh, yes sir! These camera phones come with a great resolution that deliver great picture quality. Also, being a part of high-end phones, they have so many features that allow you to take even better photos. But, I bet, half of you guys haven't even explored these features. Thinking of how to improve camera phone photography? Well, worry not my ignorant friends..! Listed below are some useful tips and some secret tips that will allow you to shoot brilliant photos using your camera phones.

Check the Camera's Features
Alright, the first thing you need to do is check what all the camera phone has to offer. This means, you need to go to the camera icon on your phone and check all the settings, modes, and other features it offers. Now, camera phones come with many features. However, the number of features in a camera phone depends on how good your phone is. If you have a basic phone, then it might have limited features, while high-end phones might offer better number of features. So, just check what are all the features in the camera phone. In case you don't understand the technical terms or settings, refer to the phone's user manual. Here are some features found in today's camera phones that are explained in brief.
 -The 'reduce noise' feature decreases grains in the picture, improves clarity, so keep this always on.
Various 'scene modes' help to quickly adjust settings with one click, change the scene modes according to the subject and time.
-'Face detection' feature helps to detect the face while taking portraits, thus improving the focus on face, so keep this always on.
-'Anti-shake or anti-blur' feature helps to reduce blur caused by shaking of camera. So keep this feature active.
-There is a feature which allows you to choose the 'shutter sound', simply turn this off or at least let the sound be least disturbing.
-There is a 'flash' in-built in many camera phones, use it at discretion, more about this is mentioned in the light section below.
-'ISO', is an important feature which allows you to control the amount of light and clarity of images. Higher the ISO, more exposed the subject is and lesser is the clarity, and vice versa.
-In case you have an 'aperture' feature, use it too. Aperture is basically the size of the opening of lens. So, larger the aperture, more the light, and vice versa.
-'Shutter speed' is the amount of time the shutter in the camera is left open. So, higher the shutter speed, more is the amount of light entering and vice versa.
-Another feature that phone cameras come with is - 'white balance'. It helps to bring out the colors properly in a shot.

Take Loads of Shots
Now, don't be shy! Go around playing with the various camera phone settings and modes. Take loads of pictures and notice the change in settings and modes reflected in your photos. Do the following exercises whenever you get time to get a hang of the technical settings:
-You will notice that pictures shot on high-resolution have higher clarity, and vice versa.
-You will notice that selecting modes like landscape bring in more green color in the landscape, similarly portrait mode helps to shoot softer pictures, also night mode quickly improves the amount of light in the picture. So, explore all the modes.
-Also, explore the filters like sepia and black and white.
-Another important feature you need to understand is white balance (WB). Choose an appropriate WB for different scenes. For instance: change the amount of WB when indoors, outdoors, during night, etc. A simple experiment is to place a plain white sheet on the table, and take various shots of it while adjusting the WB value.
-If your phone has a feature that allows you to change aperture and shutter speed, then take pictures using different settings of these features. To check out the shutter speed, take a picture of tap water at various speeds. Experiment with small and large apertures by shooting a branch, to see how the focus and amount of light changes.
-Also, explore ISO outdoors to see the clarity and lighting of pictures.
-Turn off the shutter sound in case it irritates you, however, that sound can come handy when you are taking self-shots with a back-facing camera phone.

Check the Settings
So, once you have done the above exercises honestly (yes, I mean honestly!), you would have already got the hang of all the features and settings. So, before composing a subject, check the necessary settings required. For instance: if you are shooting a dog running, try the sport mode, and go for medium value of ISO. In case, you have to capture something quickly and don't have time to adjust any settings, then focus more on composing.

Check the Angle
Having the right angle can make a lot of difference. The subject of camera angles can be quite vast, so here are some pointers. Whenever you're shooting people, shoot at eye level. When you're trying to make something look big (like a building), shoot at a low angle. In case you want to shoot a document, shoot at the top angle, get really close in case you want to capture details on an object, e.g., texture of a tree bark.

Check the Light
This is a very important aspect of photography. So, don't ever underestimate the importance of lighting. Here are certain things to remember when trying to get a good shot. First, always see that the subject is well-lit. Certain camera phones might display a warning if the shot is not well-lit. In case, your phone has it, turn it on and use it to shoot well-lit pictures. Also, use a flash in case there isn't enough light. However, be warned because, using flash can increase the amount of shadows on the subject. Similarly to improve light, use the night mode, ISO, lower shutter speed and aperture. A very important thing to remember is to always get the light source behind you, this will give softer and well-lit pictures.

Compose the Picture Well
A well-composed frame can really help to take brilliant shots. Here are some pointers. Always, try to fill the frame. Try to focus on one subject rather than trying to capture many. In case you are trying to shoot a landscape, go for the wide zoom. However, if you have digital zoom only in your camera phone, then avoid taking landscapes. But, if you have a camera that allows to take high-resolution pictures, consider using the rule of thirds. To understand this rule, imagine two equally spaced horizontal and two equally spaced vertically lines. At the intersection of these lines, place your subject. This is because, the intersecting areas are where the eye first looks. Another important thing to remember while composing shots is to keep your fingers away from the lens.

Hold the Phone with a Steady Hand
This aspect is very important. Always, hold the camera phone with a steady hand. Here is one technique I use, compose the shot and before you are about to click the button, breathe in and then breathe out, then take a two-second pause and shoot. You might also want to balance yourself properly before taking a shot. To do this, simply stand at shoulder-length distance between your feet. Also, hold the phone properly so that it won't shake while you press the button. Use the automatic timer in case your phone has one, to avoid blur.

Use Photo-editing Software
Photo-editing software is good but don't make a habit of using it to always correct a bad photo. However, it can come quite handy in case of an important picture. To correct such pictures, use this software. Mostly, such software are used to correct lighting, reduce noise, crop, reduce blur and add filter effects.

Maintain the Lens
Keep your camera lens always clean. Use a lint-free soft cloth and wipe your camera lens regularly. Avoid using your fingertips to clean the lens, and in case you don't have a soft cloth, use your t-shirt to wipe the lens. This is important because, a clean lens helps to give clear and better pictures. To increase the life of your camera lens, put a transparent plastic guard on it.

Exploit Your Camera Phone Completely
Sometimes, you might wonder that the camera phone is not good enough and a better camera could have helped you take better pictures. However, this problem arises mostly when one is not capable of exploiting the complete potential of the camera phone. So, before you come to the conclusion that your camera phone is not good enough, exploit the camera phone completely. To do this, use the above tips and keep experimenting with all the settings and features, and I am sure you will be rewarded with great pictures. For instance: a portrait in black and white filter can give a timeless picture. Similarly, taking the camera phone really close to your pet dog's nose and shooting at a small aperture can give an unusual and interesting picture.

These were the important tips that will help you exploit your camera phone's potential and take some really great shots. After a month's practice of these tips, you will notice your camera phone photos have become better, which surely will make your friends ask, "did you take this pic?" Well, then with your smug smile when you reply "yes", do thank me mentally. Good luck and enjoy!!
Read more at Buzzle: http://www.buzzle.com/articles/how-to-improve-camera-phone-photography.html

The meaning of Photography

Photography is the science, art and practice of creating durable images by recording light or otherelectromagnetic radiation, either electronically by means of an image sensor, or chemically by means of a light-sensitive material such as photographic film.^[1]

Typically, a lens is used to focus the light reflected or emitted from objects into a real image on the light-sensitive surface inside a camera during a timed exposure. With an electronic image sensor, this produces an electrical charge at each pixel, which is electronically processed and stored in a digital image file for subsequent display or processing. The result with photographic emulsion is an invisible latent image, which is later chemically"developed" into a visible image, either negative or positive depending on the purpose of the photographic material and the method of processing. A negative image on film is traditionally used to photographically create a positive image on a paper base, known as a print, either by using an enlarger or by contact printing.

Photography is employed in many fields of science, manufacturing (e.g. photolithography) and business, as well as its more direct uses for art, recreational purposes, and mass communication.